View Full Version : If this is BS forum, try this??
finkle62
November 29th, 2000, 12:12 PM
You guys can fix my card, why not my car???? My work car is a 90 Toyota Camry with 325,000 miles. Runs like a top!!
At about 270,000 miles original ignition coil burned out, well been through about 6 (O'riellys) since then. Checked resistance on plug wires, way below specks. thats all i can think of. Could spark plugs be to hot?? anythoughts????
thanx, finkle
PS if this shouldn't be here i'll edit it.
racer x
November 29th, 2000, 12:33 PM
well i would start looking in the direction od the distributor how many amps to coil ?? and by a book .
Ragdoll
November 29th, 2000, 01:11 PM
Did you have the voltage regulator metered?
TDonn
November 29th, 2000, 05:00 PM
Did you change the ignitor??? There not known to go bad on the 3sfe eng's, but other toyota's (22re, for example).....They are a frequent source of trouble......With that many miles, who knows....
PS
You should always start with replaceing the cap, rotor, plugs, and plug wires anyway....It never hurts
crownvic
November 29th, 2000, 05:36 PM
Sound's like to high or to low Voltage to the primary side of the coil..I never use aftermaket Coil's or module's they will leave you stranded..it's not worth the towing fee..
Check the voltage to the primary side of the coil usually if is to low you will have starting problem's..Check your charging system...If it is going full fledge it will also cook your battery.Make sure your coil as a good ground connection..Also make sure that when you turn the igntion off you don't get voltage to the primary side of the coil..CRvic
cerberus
November 29th, 2000, 06:49 PM
I'd buy myself a new work car with 125,000 miles on it. That is what I did...:D Got a long way to run.
cerberus
http://www.geocities.com/the_end1065/hammer2.gif
alias
November 29th, 2000, 07:38 PM
As crownvic said, use an OE coil and wires no matter what the cost. As far as primary voltage, it's the resistance
of the high tension side, (plugs, cap, rotor and wires)
in series with the coils internal resistance that determines
the KV output. Make a quick check of the primary voltage,
should be max. 14.5 (charging voltage) or as low as 10 volts
if there is a ballast resistor. But coil suicide is usually
due to too high a secondary resistance putting to much demand on it. (plugs, wires etc.) If all that checks out,
the engine is too lean. (dirty injectors etc.) An over lean
mixture will require exponentially higher KVs to ignite.
An inductive scope would tell all. Look for 20 to 30 kilovolts, up around 40 kills things. Good luck.
vhgtns
November 30th, 2000, 06:00 PM
you should of went to school and gotten a high paying job,if you dont know how to work on your own car.even ryan leaf of the san diego chargers went to college got a good paying job and dosent have to work on hisown car.
crownvic
November 30th, 2000, 08:50 PM
If you ever have a car with 325,000 Mile's on it, believe you me you have learned how to work on car's. I think finkle as a good hobby beside's watchin T.V.
He love's the car, I used to have a girlfriend with a lot of mile's on her too (I traded her in)...
OK Enough said before Muggle's come's out here, We are getting off subject...LOL CRvic...Finkle it's time for a new one..(CAR)Hey Mug's that car should be retired to...:D CRvic..
OK GAL's Don't all come at me at once I was just Kiddin YA
finkle62
December 1st, 2000, 01:30 PM
Racer X, already have a book and the ign. coil is under the dist. cap and specs. out according to chilton.
Ragdoll, the chilton manual doesn't mention a voltage reg. and the toy. mechs. i've talked to haven't either, but i'll write that down.
TDonn, routinly change everything, but toy. says "ignitor is good or it ain't" about that 22r i got a 82 toy. 4x4 SR5 in high school(86), did my best to destroy it. other than bearings on main shaft of trany couldn't hurt it. finally sold it to pay sales tax on new F150. Boy i miss that truck.
CrownVic, everything specs. to manual. I think aftermarket is my problem. But Toy. parts are so high!!! Waaaaaaa!!!!
Cerberus, other than this car has had no problem. Me to, 125 miles each way!!!
Alias, i believe you are correct on the OE , i've asked a handful of Toy. Mech. and first Q. is "aftermarket plugwires" Don't know anything about conductive scope, but OE parts is sounding like the way.
vhgtns, Half my buddies that went to college got a degree, title, and salary and wish they had my job. I'd play Ryan Leaf in a game of Trivial Pursuit or Millianaire anyday!!!
Finally I DO LOVE THAT CAR i'll figure out that ign. coil problem and look out half a million. thanks for the ideas
i'm going to get Toy. parts see how that does.
Ragdoll
December 1st, 2000, 02:24 PM
Hey Finkle,
Where is the ignition coil located? Is it close to the block? Was a heat shield removed? Can water get to the coil? Your problem might not be electrical, but environment. Just a thought...
Good Luck,
Ragdoll
Col.Shadow
December 1st, 2000, 02:29 PM
The easiest way to fix your car is to jack up the radiator cap and pull a new car under it, then lower cap and tighten.
Fubar
December 1st, 2000, 04:05 PM
with that few miles on it!!i would DEMAND toyota to take
care of it,should go at least 500 thousand.my 2cents.
:D
HAVMAN
December 1st, 2000, 06:51 PM
You know, i'll bet the distributor caught the datastream, didn't have the 63 updates, and was the unfortunate victom of a massive ECM!!!
finkle62
December 1st, 2000, 07:03 PM
Ragdoll, ign. coil under the dist. cap, clean and dry.
ECM?? have to hit that emulator forum, i guess???
That car is just getting broke in, thanx Old Man!!!!
Why would i want to replace a semi-new car????
thanx everyone OE parts here i come!!
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